It was barely 8 a.m., and the East African sun was already beating down on the tops of our heads as we walked single file through the yam fields of Rwanda. I couldn’t help but stare intently at the machine gun in front of me as it hung over the shoulder of our leader, making a loud clacking noise with each step he took on an otherwise soundless morning.
Nobody spoke, yet the magnitude of where we were and what was ahead saturated the air with collective anticipation. We were acutely aware of the risk that accompanied us that day, and the eight fully armed guards there to protect us. I had come to Rwanda to see the last remaining mountain gorillas on Earth, and just two weeks prior to our arrival, poachers had killed two female gorillas and captured an infant in this very location. The latest killings were incredibly significant and marked the first time since 1985 that gorillas had been slaughtered in Rwanda-- the same year that Dr. Dian Fossey, author of Gorillas in the Mist and a fellow San Franciscan, was brutally murdered in her cabin at the foot of this same volcano.
With a heavy heart, I made my way up the bamboo-covered ridge to where the majestic gorillas reside. Our pursuit often involved a lot of strenuous jostling up muddy hillsides in heavy vegetation, which was physically demanding. It had just rained the night before, and I found myself reaching frequently for the nearest vine just so that I could stay upright as I began to slide down the slippery terrain.
The moments were intense as we walked in silence knowing that somewhere ahead we would reach our purpose. And when we finally heard the distinctive grunting of the gorillas in the distance, it was a surreal experience! There was a final moment of excitement and adjustments as we left behind our backpacks with one of the guards before taking a deep breath and turning the corner.
There they were. A short distance away- two large female gorillas sat eating leaves, stopping briefly to look up and receive us. Their reddish-black fur shined in the sunlight, as they seemed to emanate both warmth and tenderness amongst the lush emerald-green backdrop of the forest.
Seeing the gorillas for the first time was remarkably eerie. The lines of evolution became confusingly blurry to me, and in that instance, I forgot whether I was looking at an animal or a person, because it felt as though I could see straight into their soul. Their huge eyes and faces are astonishingly humanlike, and the complexity of their intellect is both visible and humbling to encounter. I stood frozen those first few moments, respectfully gazing at one of our closest ancestors!
Sometimes the gorillas would simply stop and tolerate us for long periods of time, and at other moments they would quickly take off into the forest, requiring our guide to forge a path after them with a machette, literally following their footprints until we could sit again and observe them quietly.
On a few occasions, we got a little too close to the gorillas, who always chose me to rush up to, stopping just inches away from my comparatively tiny body. The guide instructed me to get on the ground and not look them in the eyes! Fortunately, the gorillas seemed to acknowledge my apology and left me alone, but they had every reason to be defensive. The greatest threat to this extraordinary animal is man.
We observe a young infant who is playing and rolling around on the ground, then pounding on its chest in an adorable attempt to show off to the humans. I can’t help but think about the baby gorilla that had been captured here recently, wondering where she has gone, and which one of these beautiful animals might be missing her about now.
Next, we followed a massive silverback, the term used for an adult male who develops a gray patch of fur on its back when reaching maturity. He is a massive creature, weighing approximately 400 pounds! He sat munching on bamboo while looking at us, as we sat nearby to take each other in.
We stay with the gorillas for the maximum amount of time allowed to ensure the safety and health of the animals. I said goodbye, thanking them for the delightful visit, and wishing at the same time that I didn’t have to leave. The two-day road trip back to Uganda was just as enchanting as when we drove it the first time. The land is green and fertile, and along the way we bought bananas, watermelon and fire-roasted corn, which tasted warm and burnt, and strangely comforting after such a long journey. We returned to Entebbe with smiles on our lips and magic in our hearts from an extraordinary and bittersweet encounter with nature.
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